Where Do You Go? with Hilary Heath
The manager of the French House on truffled cheddar, 'window licking' and the romance of Soho
Every now and again we like to ask people for their personal take on London. We get them to tell us the places in the city that they turn to for different reasons: the spots that excite them, inspire them, make them feel calm, happy or just make them want to spend money. We call it ‘Where do you go?’.
For August’s edition of WDYG? we spoke to Hilary Heath (above), the manager of legendary Soho institution, The French House about the greatly exaggerated rumours of Soho’s demise, her number one place for a good lunch, and the only customer of the French House who is allowed to drink from a pint glass.
You can find all the previous editions of WDYG? right here.
Who are you?
I am a big old Australian hussy/wine bag/fromage freak. I arrived in London by accident in 1990 after one of my travelling companions tried to strangle the other one in a hostel in Rome. I cashed in my return ticket and took a job at the Groucho, where they seemed to think l knew what l was doing because l had worked at the Sydney Opera House. I lived in Dog Kennel Hill. A high school friend introduced me to the French House and it was love at first sight.
Why should we trust you?
I am licensed to serve intoxicating liquors of all descriptions and l have a diploma in sabrage.
You’ll have been at the French House for 20 years next year. What’s kept you there all this time?
I absolutely love it. I just think it’s a brilliant place.
I love that Francis Bacon, Lucien Freud, Dylan Thomas all used to drink in here, and I love that there’s still great artists coming here and that we can put exhibitions on that can encourage that. We’re currently showing some amazing paintings by Rupert Shrive, who donated a print to the auction we had to raise rent money during lockdown. The auction was incredible, with about 200 artists donating work for it. The pub sign outside was painted by Neal Fox, who also contributed a painting that helped save our bacon.
There’s just this really good feeling of a community…. and of enjoying a drink as well.
You came over in 1990 with little more than a backpack and got a job at the Groucho. Do you think that could happen in 2023?
I’m not sure. When I went to the Groucho, I just walked in and they took me in. I think they were quite keen on people like me who were ‘fresh off the boat’, because they thought we wouldn’t see half the stuff that was going on behind the scenes.
I had no idea that people were doing so much coke in the place! People used to say it would come through the air conditioning. I’m not sure that’s still the case though.
We have to ask: Is Soho dying? Or is that just the same complaint that people have been making for decades?
Jeffrey Bernard was complaining about that in the 60s and 70s. Michael, my husband, complains about it as well, but I’m sure he was complaining about it 30 years ago.
When Lesley took on The French in 1989, people complained bitterly because it wasn’t Gaston’s pub anymore. She had a terrible time there when she first took over. But thing change. That doesn’t mean they get worse. I think Lesley has done an amazing job to keep things going.
They just had the Soho Fete and waiters’ race and hundreds and hundreds of people turned up. It was the busiest one ever. And Soho Food Feast is still drawing massive crowd, that’s always sold out.
The other the other big debate that’s going on right now is rich people moving into Soho and then complaining about the noise…
Well, those people are just idiots.
It’s appalling about what’s going on at Trisha’s, the people who complained about that lived two blocks away.
Can you reassure us then that so that the French House is going to be okay?
The French House is always going to be okay!
We had the crowdfunder and art auction during lockdown and I don’t think anyone who contributed to either of those would stand by and watch the French go down. It’s got an incredible amount of support.
Unfortunately we have lost a few of our old regulars, but there are new ones coming in all the time, especially young artists, actors and writers. I really feel like it’s a breeding ground for creativity.
Okay, on to the usual questions… Where do you go to have a great time?
Can l go back in time? The Colony Room Club. The best place on earth.
Where do you go and always end up spending too much money?
The Soho Dairy in Berwick St. Remember there was a fruit stall in that market that sold ‘extras’? Cheese is my drug and when I get milk for the French in the morning they always have some truffled cheddar to wave under my nose like poppers.
Where do you go that can never close down, because if it does you might cry?
SOHO! Camisa’s, Gerrys booze store (above) and the French… They have been like my London family for over 30 years. Long may they live!
Where do you go to cheer yourself up?
I go ‘window licking’ as they say in France. There are some gorgeous shops in my part of town, my favourites are Maggie Owen, Fisher antiques and Antoni & Alison.
Where do you go to impress someone?
Any Hart Group restaurant. l love the Barrafina in Coal Drops Yard and it is always a joy to dine at Quo Vadis with the divine Jeremy Lee at the helm!
Where do you go that’s within walking distance of your house?
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